THAW 2010

by Caitlin Collins

Thursday night brought local photographers, Heffner models, eleven local designers and a houseful of generous guests together to create a night of fashion in the name of charity. Now a four year tradition, THAW is Seattle’s annual fashion show dedicated to raising money for the national nonprofit HDSA, or Huntington’s Disease Society of America.

An hour before the doors open to the public, we catch the backstage scene—lounging models, frantic hair and makeup stylists and, chatting in a corner of the room, local designers. One such designer is Jesica Milton, a Seamless in Seattle winner of 2009. Taking a moment from preparing for the show, she is kind enough to give me a preview, revealing a tunic that can be worn as either a shirt or a dress. Though wonderfully structured (even on the hanger), most stunning about the top is the fabric, featuring black cobwebbery over white, which Jesica romantically describes as “inkdrops falling in water.”

A visit to the couch of male models instantly changes the pace from frantic to laid back. Male model Tristyn relaxes, taking a break between his morning on King 5 and the evening ahead. For both events he wears Michael Cepress’ new Spring/Summer looks, which he shyly describes as “really short shorts.” Despite his 4 years as a Heffner model in Seattle, Tristyn’s knowledge of the local fashion scene is sparse–”I only know like 2 designers,” he admits. Across the room standing next to her mother is model Paisha Coffey, certainly proving to be a face to watch. Though barely 17, Paisha is not only signed with Heffner but is also preparing to depart for 6 weeks to London. It’s up to the talented people in this room to enhance Seattle’s fashion scene, so that local models are educated about the clothes they wear and promising new models can stay in the city.

A sharply dressed designer with 1950′s James Dean-style hair rounds the corner: Michael Cepress is back at THAW this year with the show’s finale collection. Cepress describes his historical inspiration for his spring/summer line as “1960′s—not hippie, but beachy.” Promising new pieces, Cepress seems especially excited about his new bow ties, one of which he is modeling. Available in a variety of colors, including green, purple and orange-yellow, these classic bow ties can be found at Cepress’ shop on Loretta Place.

Also lurking in pre-show backstage is Heili Aun Nala of Heilyke. Having graduated only a year ago, Heili has already managed to leave a solid impression on Seattle’s fashion scene with her ready-wear woolen coats. Tonight she features some new jackets in her collection, and as she leafs through the hanging coats, I’m struck by the fine craftsmanship typical of her designs. For example, each jacket contains her signature inside details; silken linings, lace, fine stitching, and the audience tonight won’t even be able to see these little labors. Then Heili reveals what has to be my favorite new piece—what she describes as “a high end trenchcoat.” Made of alpaca wool, this trench features a large ribbed collar and matching cuffs, offering a twist on the classic outerwear.

Seamless in Seattle favorites from 2008 and 2009 initiated the fashion show. Jesica Milton’s set proved to be very wearable with her tunic and a matching light spring dress gathered at the waist, retaining a feminine structure while still providing softness and movement for the season.

Ultimately, the man who took the most chances with his collection was Jason Arrington of Bartholomew with a Jean-Paul Gaultier-esque style. His featured floor-length silken gown had lacy black curtains that flashed impressively as model Paisha walked, and a miniature Victorian cage crinoline hovered over the silky skirts, swaying at a rhythm of its own.

Seamless designers also included Tanya Min Jee with structured bold pieces, Karly Orr with two simple dresses, Six Degrees continuing the metallic dress movement, and Liise Wyatt with an ambitious attempt at marrying bright green frills and elegant cocktail dresses.

The show continued with full set designers and, in a sudden burst of promise, Jill Lindsey presented an array of unique dresses. Breaking up the night’s pattern of short, metallic and sleeveless pieces, her dresses included bold reds, floor-length gowns, lovely draping bows and bulky bunching. The best part of Jill Lindsey’s dresses is the backs: twisted ropes, triangular cuts, lots of skin.

Liise Wyatt and Karly Orr collaborated for a new label called Wyatt Orr.  Their collection of jackets had the recurring elements of off-center zippers, quirky back pockets and high collars fastened to one side. Impressively finishing the collection was a women’s long woolen coat, broken up with leather along the inner arms and a leather tie around the waist. City chic and rougher, this coat enters the discourse of this season’s biker chic trend.

Next, Heilyke opened her set with the fabulous woolen trenchcoat, and followed with more nature-inspired woolen ware. Deep greens, charcoals and of course constant wools made Heili’s a very Autumn collection. Her new pieces show a progression into more close-fitting and sleek designs while still maintaining her organic inspiration.

Finishing up the night were Michael Cepress’ male models. Adorning the shortest of navy blue shorts complete with skinny brown leather belts, they emerged one at a time carrying cardboard signs reading “Michael” “Cepress” “Loves” “You.” Barefoot and beachy (as promised), the boys modeled double collars, fitted and tucked in button ups, stripes and bold colors paired with neutral tans and grays, and of course, those spruced up bowties.

THAW 2010 was a success. Local models, photographers and designers got the exposure they deserve, and thousands of dollars went to the HDSA.

Photography by Ross James and Erwin Wijanto.